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What to actually do there — amenities, dining and the walk worth taking

Pools, thermal baths, dune walks and where the half-board option is worth taking. A practical companion to the first three destinations on the list.

2026-09-22 · Como · Baden-Baden · Gran Canaria · Lausanne

One of the Lopesan pool complexes at Meloneras, Gran Canaria
A Lopesan pool at Meloneras. The amenities are half the price difference — worth knowing which ones you will use.

A cheap night in a good hotel is only good value if the hotel is one you actually want to be in. So here is the companion piece to the first three destinations: what the properties give you, what is within walking distance, and where paying for board makes sense.

Gran Canaria — the resorts are the destination

This is the one place on our list where the hotel is the holiday, and the amenity list is therefore the thing to compare rather than skim.

Lopesan Meloneras at dusk — palms, pools and a resort built to look like a village
Lopesan Meloneras at dusk — palms, pools and a resort built to look like a village
A Lopesan dinner menu illustrated with the island's own landscapes
A Lopesan dinner menu illustrated with the island's own landscapes

Lopesan Villa del Conde Resort & Thalasso from CHF 156 has six pools, five restaurants and the Corallium Thalasso centre — seawater circuits rather than a token treatment room. Five restaurants on site is the reason half board is worth pricing here: at most resorts it locks you into one buffet, and here it does not.

The Corallium thalasso circuit at Lopesan Villa del Conde — seawater rather than a token treatment room
The Corallium thalasso circuit at Lopesan Villa del Conde — seawater rather than a token treatment room

Lopesan Baobab Resort from CHF 143 answers a different question. Nine pools and a lazy river, on a 72,000 m² plot, themed hard around an African village with a waterfall atrium in the middle. If anyone in the party wants to spend the entire day in water, this is the one.

The Lopesan Baobab lobby under its thatched roof, four storeys of it
The Lopesan Baobab lobby under its thatched roof, four storeys of it

Lopesan Costa Meloneras Resort & Spa from CHF 193 is the largest and the most conventional, and it is consistently the dearest of the trio despite being the least distinctive.

Loungers and parasols at Lopesan — the part of the price you either use or waste
Loungers and parasols at Lopesan — the part of the price you either use or waste

The walk everyone should take

The promenade runs from Meloneras east to the Maspalomas lighthouse and the dunes reserve behind it. The dunes are protected landscape — genuine desert, a ten-minute walk from a buffet, which is a strange and excellent thing. Go at either end of the day. The middle of the day in summer is punishing and the light is flat.

The lighthouse is also where the resort stops being a resort and starts being a place with a life of its own. Boulevard El Faro curls around the foot of it — an open-air arcade of shops running to Ralph Lauren, Hugo Boss, jewellers and perfumeries, with a large Fundgrube for anyone whose interests are more practical — and the cafés and restaurants spill out onto terraces facing the water. Walk back west along the Paseo de Meloneras and it is one long run of beach bars and grill restaurants, most with a sea view and none of them in a hurry to give your table away at sunset.

It is noticeably smarter than the strip east of the lighthouse, and dearer to match, though the presentation earns it. If you have taken half board, this is precisely the reason to leave two or three evenings out of it.

The other direction takes you to Pasito Blanco marina, quieter, better for a long lunch.

The Maspalomas lighthouse from the beach — 56 metres, and you can see it from everywhere
The Maspalomas lighthouse from the beach — 56 metres, and you can see it from everywhere
The promenade at first light, before anyone else is on it
The promenade at first light, before anyone else is on it

Baden-Baden — the water is the amenity

A different model entirely. Here the town is the resort, and the hotel is simply where you keep your things.

Baden-Baden is, to our mind, the pearl of Europe's bath towns — and it is not a close contest. Eleven of them share a UNESCO listing as the Great Spa Towns of Europe, and this is the one that still feels like a town rather than a monument to having once been one. The Romans found the springs and bathed in them; the nineteenth century built everything around them and then filled it with orchestras and gamblers. What is left is a single walkable valley holding thermal water, a casino, a serious concert hall, a river promenade through parkland, and the Black Forest beginning where the last street ends. Nothing is more than twenty minutes on foot from anything else. There is no resort gate to pass through, no wristband, no sense of being inside someone's property — you simply live in the town for a few days, and the water happens to be part of it.

Our first choice here, ahead of anything else in town, is Badischer Hof Baden-Baden from CHF 151. Not because it is the grandest address in Baden-Baden; it is not, and it does not try to be. It is the one we would book again without stopping to think.

Start with the thermal water, piped directly into the building — only a handful of houses in the town can say that, and it is the amenity actually worth paying for here. Then the things that do not show up on a booking page: staff who are warm rather than merely correct, rooms considerably better than the stars on the door would lead you to expect, a breakfast worth getting up for and a restaurant good enough that you stop looking for somewhere else to eat. The bar is its own idea rather than the usual hotel-lobby shrug, and it is the sort of detail that turns a good stay into one you talk about afterwards.

At CHF 151≈ €160 · $184 in its low season, you are barely paying for any of it.

The marble hall at the Badischer Hof, twin staircases climbing away under the glass roof
The marble hall at the Badischer Hof, twin staircases climbing away under the glass roof

Then there are the two public bath houses, both walkable:

Know which you are booking. People get this wrong.

The Kurhaus colonnade at six in the morning, before anyone is about
The Kurhaus colonnade at six in the morning, before anyone is about
The Badischer Hof garden frontage, the lawn running down to the trees
The Badischer Hof garden frontage, the lawn running down to the trees

Otherwise: the Lichtentaler Allee park promenade along the Oos river, the Kurhaus and its casino, the Festspielhaus for concerts, and the Trinkhalle colonnade. It is a small town and all of it is on foot.

Steigenberger Icon Europäischer Hof Baden-Baden from CHF 164 sits on the Kaiserallee as the fuller-service alternative, at CHF 164≈ €174 · $199 low against Badischer Hof's CHF 151≈ €160 · $184 — a much smaller gap than the star ratings suggest.

The Kurhaus gardens in April
The Kurhaus gardens in April

Como — no pool, no spa, and five very different front doors

None of the Como places on our list is a hotel. They are apartments and guest houses: no pool, no spa, no restaurant, nobody to carry your bag up the stairs. The price reflects all of that. What you are buying instead is an address — and in a town this small, the address is most of the holiday.

Five of them sit within a few hundred metres of each other, and they are not interchangeable. Each has its own reason to exist.

Bello!Lake Como Suites from CHF 133 is the one with the view. Historic centre, facing the water, a short walk from the Duomo, and only three suites and two double rooms — so you are never one of two hundred. It is by a distance the most reviewed of the guest houses, which usually means a place is doing something people go home and talk about. It is also the most temperamental of the five on price: we have seen it as cheap as anything in Como and, on a typical night, dearer than all of them. Of everything on this page, it is the one where moving your dates pays best. If the point of your trip is to open a window onto the lake before breakfast, start here.

Vitrum - Como Luxury Suites from CHF 173 is for anyone who wants the old stones on their doorstep. Sixty metres from the cathedral, a hundred from the Broletto — you step out of the door and you have already arrived. There is a steam room on site, which for a guest house is a real indulgence. It scores the highest of the five, though on the fewest reviews, so read that as a promising sign rather than a settled verdict.

Alessia's Place from CHF 158 is the practical one, and we mean that as a compliment. Central, three hundred metres from the water, and right by the funicular up to Brunate — so the best view in Como is a five-minute ride from your own front door. One thing to watch: some units are rooms and some are studios with a kitchen. Those are two different holidays, so book the one you actually want.

Fitzgerald Building by "The House Of Travelers" from CHF 140 is the quiet corner. Seven hundred metres from the station, up near the Volta Temple and Sant'Abbondio, out of the evening crowds along the lakefront. The unit we track is fifty square metres with its own kitchen, which is a great deal of room for the money in a town this expensive. Take it if you want space, quiet, and a door you can close on the day.

Historical Suites by "The House Of Travelers" from CHF 133 comes from the same operator as the Fitzgerald and sits in the old town, and it is the one for a tight budget. On a typical night it is the cheapest of the five, and the address is every bit as central as the others. We will be straight about the catch: of the five, it also reviews the weakest — not badly, just plainly behind its own sibling — and inventory is thin, so it appears and disappears. If you are counting every franc it earns its place easily. If you are not, the Fitzgerald is the better room for a little more.

Not one of them will bring you breakfast. All of them put you inside a lakeside town you can cross on foot without ever needing a car — and that is the trade. You spend the money on being there rather than on the building you sleep in.

A dining room laid up in Como
A dining room laid up in Como

From the centro storico, everything is walkable:

An alley climbing away from the water, bell tower at the top of it
An alley climbing away from the water, bell tower at the top of it

Most of these have a kitchen, which changes the economics of a week. Eating out every night in a lake town in season costs more than the room does.

The piazza in the late afternoon — the reason room-only works here
The piazza in the late afternoon — the reason room-only works here

Lausanne — the hotel is the view

A fourth model. On Lake Geneva you are paying for a frontage, and the difference between paying a lot and paying a little for the same frontage is about four hundred metres of quay.

Hôtel Angleterre & Résidence from CHF 173 sits on the Ouchy waterfront in the building where Byron wrote in 1816. Beau-Rivage Palace from CHF 470 is the 1861 grand hotel in its own park along the same shore. The view is effectively identical; the price is not.

The Beau-Rivage Palace gardens in Lausanne from above, lake and Savoy Alps beyond
The Beau-Rivage Palace gardens in Lausanne from above, lake and Savoy Alps beyond

All four Lausanne palaces run Leaders Club, free to join, and we have measured it at 5.0% off at Beau-Rivage and 10.7% at Lausanne Palace.

Sunset over the marina at Ouchy
Sunset over the marina at Ouchy

Rewards programmes, where they exist

Worth two minutes before you book, because on some of these it is the largest single saving available:

⚠ Every price on this site is the public rate. Where a club exists, the real number for a member is lower than what we show.

The rule underneath all four

Match the board to the place. In Meloneras, where the resort has five restaurants and the nearest alternative is a walk, half board is usually worth it. In Como, where you are surrounded by the town and have a kitchen, room-only is obviously right. In Baden-Baden it depends entirely on whether you intend to spend your days in the baths or in the town. In Lausanne, breakfast at a palace hotel is a genuine event and frequently the best-value meal you will eat there.

That decision moves the real cost of a trip more than the nightly rate does — which is why we record whether breakfast is included on every single price we track.

The rest of the roll

Everything else we came back with from this trip — ours, taken on the days described above. Click any of them to see it properly.

Gran Canaria

The big Lopesan lagoon pool, rocks and allDinner at Lopesan, first courseThe lighthouse at night, with the moon where you would have put itThe Lopesan Baobab entrance, a cliff of timber poles four storeys highParasols scattered down the sand in the middle of the afternoonThrough the Lopesan arcade, first thing in the morningThe whole strip from above: pools, promenade, and the lighthouse holding the end of itThe thatched roofline at Lopesan Baobab, carved concrete and glass beneath itThe coast from the same spot, looking the other wayThe Maspalomas lighthouse, 1890, floodlit against a blue hour skyThe coast south of the resorts, from a heightThe same Lopesan pool from the shallow end, resort behindSushi on the terrace at Hotel Faro, a Lopesan Collection Hotel, with the afternoon still goingThe Lopesan entrance at midnight, still lit like a stage setLunch under the palms at Lopesan, unhurriedA dunes-conservation sign on the promenade: your gaze, the only trace you leaveLopesan Villa del Conde after dark, its frontage modelled on a Canarian town squareBookmatched marble at Hotel Faro, a Lopesan Collection Hotel — the sort of detail that tells you where the budget wentThe Lopesan Baobab atrium in daylight — stone chimneys, woven lampshades and a stage at the far endWalking in to Lopesan Baobab between the timber walls — someone ahead with a rubber ring, which tells you what the day holdsPetits fours arriving at a Lopesan restaurant whether you asked for them or notThe courtyard and fountain at Lopesan Costa Meloneras, chairs out for the eveningThe Maspalomas lighthouse and the Lopesan pools from above, end of the dayThe same Lopesan row from the other side, mid-afternoonA gilded figure against the dawn, the Lopesan pool still emptyThe rooftop bar at Hotel Faro, a Lopesan Collection Hotel, looking back over the resorts after darkSomebody's afternoon work on the beach, and it was better than oursThe lighthouse and its shoreline in the middle of the dayLopesan Baobab after midnight, the atrium lit and completely emptyA table by the window at Lopesan as the light goesDown the length of the Lopesan Baobab restaurant, mud-cloth on every tableThe Lopesan plaza lit up after dark, which is when the resort is at its bestSunset over the Atlantic from the promenadeThe Atlantic doing what it does, a wake crossing itSwimming distance across the Lopesan lagoon, if you are feeling ambitiousThe causeway into Lopesan Baobab, palms either side and the thatched atrium roof aheadPalms and the dry hills behind the coastThe infinity pool at Hotel Faro, a Lopesan Collection Hotel — the Maspalomas lighthouse right beside it, which is where the hotel gets its nameThe Lopesan Villa del Conde lobby, built as a full-scale copy of a Canarian village churchDusk over the Lopesan Baobab gardens — pools stepping down towards the Atlantic, and a new moon over the whole thingFrangipani in the Lopesan garden, doing the smelling for the whole terraceThe African-themed dining room at Lopesan Baobab, laid up under a painted ceilingThe promenade running east towards the lighthouseThe causeway at Lopesan Baobab at night, lit along both edgesPalms, a Lopesan pool and the Atlantic beyond the lawnA single palm against the last of the light, the Lopesan pool still warm

Baden Baden

The Badischer Hof terrace under the pines, waiting for the eveningBaden-Baden in its valley, the collegiate church tower against the Black Forest hillsThe spa quarter from above — rooftops, parkland and the forest closing the viewInside the Festspielhaus — the largest opera and concert house in Germany, and the reason to check the calendar before you pick datesThe Stourdza Chapel on the Michaelsberg, gold dome above banded stoneThe Badischer Hof from its own gardens — 1807, and the first hotel in Europe to pipe thermal water into its roomsLeopoldsplatz, where all of the town's traffic eventually meetsThe Theater Baden-Baden, and a lawn already cut in MarchTwin spires above the rhododendrons, and the first daffodils under themThe salon at Brenners, and the week's flowersThe lounge at the Steigenberger Icon Europäischer Hof — fire lit, football on, nobody in a hurryA lounge built around its own columns, Badischer HofA Gothic spire over the old town, caught against a bright March skyA room at the Badischer Hof, turned down for the nightBreakfast pâtisserie at the Badischer Hof — the stands come out at seven and are gone by tenA bronze in the Lichtentaler Allee, the Museum Frieder Burda behind itBrenners Park-Hotel on the Kaiserallee — the grandest frontage in a town built to be looked atSunrise over the Black Forest, taken from above the town at half past fiveFestival banners along the shopping street in early springThe park gardens and their fountain in late AugustA Baden-Baden villa under a plane tree not yet in leafThe Black Forest ridge above the town, with a paraglider off the MerkurThe Brenners entrance late in the afternoon (number plates obscured)The Badischer Hof bar, still empty at ten in the morningThe billiard room at Brenners — red walls, a tapestry, and nobody playingLooking down on the Kurhaus and the avenue of trees running away from it'La Capitale d'Été' — a summer concert filling the Festspielhaus stageInside the Festspielhaus, Germany's largest opera house, a few minutes before the downbeatThe Badischer Hof from under the plane trees in the parkA baroque church tower over the old town, framed by the first blossomThe Trinkhalle colonnade and its painted arcades, crocuses out across the lawnCoffee at the Museum Frieder Burda, branded down to the sugar packetA spritz on the Steigenberger roof terrace at dusk, the Festspielhaus programme open on the tableThe bar at the Steigenberger Icon Europäischer Hof, gold overhead and nobody on the stools yetBadischer Hof terrace tables looking out onto the lawnThe Oos — the small river the whole spa town is arranged alongA horse-drawn carriage waiting in the Lichtentaler Allee, as they have since the town's first seasonA salon at the Badischer Hof laid up for a spring reception, chandeliers and allThe Kurhaus portico — casino behind it, concert hall beside itBrenners Park-Hotel seen from the park, before the trees come into leafA banqueting room at Brenners, laid and waitingThe Trinkhalle from the garden side, café parasols outThe Badischer Hof lobby, arranged around its staircases under the glass roofA room with the town in the window — which is what the view costs youThe Easter Festival programme — the Berlin Philharmonic's spring residency, and the reason the town fills up in MarchThe Festspielhaus on an opera night, built behind the facade of the old railway station

Lake Como

Boats at their moorings under the mountains, the lake opening out to the northA village restaurant with its name cut into the stoneA small white church above the road, eleventh-century underneath the paintThe far shore from the promenade, a seaplane on the waterSunset over the lake from a garden in the hillsBraised beef at a village trattoria — the food here is heavier than the scenery suggestsThe sun going down behind the far ridgeThe mountain wall opposite, lit for about ten minutes a dayThe same square from the other end, in the middle of the afternoonA cappuccino on the terrace, which is the correct way to beginA friar in the Pinacoteca's collection, still watching the doorLow sun straight down the lake from the end of a jettyThe Broletto, Como's thirteenth-century town hall, striped in three colours of marbleNothing but lake and sky, looking up the western armBoats and a jetty at the blue end of the eveningLake Como from Brunate, the town at the head of the lake below the mountainsThe lakeside promenade on a Saturday morningA baroque church lit up after darkShuttered balconies on a side street in the centro storicoSunset over the lake from the hills above ComoA quiet corner of the lakefront out of season, when the town belongs to itselfThe cathedral front — Gothic below, Renaissance above, and nobody mindsA pink church front catching the last of the sunIn the Pinacoteca, out of the heat for an hourA lakeside church with the boats pulled up in front of itGolden hour on the water, a small boat heading homeThe waterfront at Como, villas climbing the slope behind the mooringsA lamp on the quay after dinnerA civic building off the main square, flag outThe Aero Club Como hangar — seaplanes have flown off this water since 1930Last light over the Lombard plain, the lake already in shadowComo's rationalist war memorial of 1933 — the town is a quiet pilgrimage for architectsDinner on the lake — the kind of meal a kitchen in the apartment lets you skip or splurge onThe view back down over the lake from Brunate, above ComoPiazza Duomo, cathedral on one side and arcades on the otherThe marina, with the mountains folding down behind the mastsA baroque church on the waterfront, bell tower and allThe bell tower again, from the lane belowLooking straight up a painted facade, which is how most of Como is best seen

Lausanne

Flowers going out in the Beau-Rivage hall before the day startsThe Grand-Pont, which carries the city straight over its own valleyThe Palais de Rumine on Place de la Riponne — several museums under one Florentine roofOuchy in July — the Savoy Alps opposite are in France, and the lake in front is why the hotels are hereThe Beau-Rivage Palace frontage from the garden terraceThe Beau-Rivage rotunda under its stained-glass domeWhite linen, an orchid, and the terrace door left open — Beau-Rivage PalaceWildflowers and a limestone peak on the way back downGardens, quay and water, stacked the way Lausanne stacks everythingSailing boats in the long evening light, from the Beau-Rivage terraceA pre-Alpine lake within easy reach of the cityThe equestrian statue in the Beau-Rivage Palace park, the Château d'Ouchy behind itThe Beau-Rivage Palace from its own lawn at Ouchy, yellow awnings out against a July sunThe Beau-Rivage room key, and the garden it lets you back intoThe pool at the Angleterre & Résidence — the cheapest of the four palace hotels, and it still has thisThe waterfront sculpture walk at OuchyGeraniums and a flag on a chalet balcony, which is not a cliché if it is simply thereA concert hall under its rose window, piano waitingThe cathedral from the street below, all four hundred vertical metres of city underneath itThe welcome box, Beau-Rivage PalaceGruyères advertising itself on the Beau-Rivage terrace — an hour up the line, and worth the dayBreakfast tables on the lawn at the Beau-Rivage Palace, nine in the morningA Beau-Rivage ballroom being set for a summer weddingThe lake from the Beau-Rivage park, with the pines doing the framingThe cathedral front, the finest Gothic in Switzerland and still keeping a night watchmanLake Geneva from the Ouchy shore, the Savoy Alps on the French sideThe gallery running the whole length of the Beau-Rivage PalaceThe #Lausanne sign at Ouchy, which everybody photographs and so did weThe Beau-Rivage Palace from the quay, every balcony facing the same wayA chalet in the pines, Fribourg pre-AlpsLake Geneva from the Beau-Rivage, the French shore on the far sideThe same water, with somebody else having had the same ideaA room at the Beau-Rivage Palace, with the lake in the window — which is what you are actually paying forA pool terrace under the umbrella pines at Ouchy, cabanas and allA small church lit against the duskAlpine meadow and a handful of chalets under the ridgeThe same figure from the lake side, with the boats behindBreakfast on the balcony, Lake Geneva doing the restA plaque to Gabriel Fauré, who summered here and began 'Pénélope' in 1907Lausanne cathedral on the ridge, seen across the rooftopsMoonlight laid out across the lakeThe Beau-Rivage terrace, and a poster for the Alfredo Jaar show at Plateforme 10A pre-Alpine lake under limestone cliffs, ninety minutes from the city

The hotels in this piece

Lopesan Villa del Conde Resort & Thalasso

Meloneras · from CHF 156 · typical CHF 242

Lopesan Baobab Resort

Meloneras · from CHF 143 · typical CHF 245

Lopesan Costa Meloneras Resort & Spa

Meloneras · from CHF 193 · typical CHF 288

Badischer Hof Baden-Baden

Baden-Baden · from CHF 151 · typical CHF 196

Steigenberger Icon Europäischer Hof Baden-Baden

Baden-Baden · from CHF 164 · typical CHF 226

Historical Suites by "The House Of Travelers"

Como · from CHF 133 · typical CHF 146

Fitzgerald Building by "The House Of Travelers"

Como · from CHF 140 · typical CHF 173

Bello!Lake Como Suites

Como · from CHF 133 · typical CHF 263

Vitrum - Como Luxury Suites

Como · from CHF 173 · typical CHF 178

Alessia's Place

Como · from CHF 158 · typical CHF 208

Hôtel Angleterre & Résidence

Lausanne · from CHF 173 · typical CHF 285

Beau-Rivage Palace

Lausanne · from CHF 470 · typical CHF 548

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A Lopesan pool at Meloneras. The amenities are half the price difference — worth knowing which ones you will use.
1 / 191 A Lopesan pool at Meloneras. The amenities are half the price difference — worth knowing which ones you will use.
Lopesan Meloneras at dusk — palms, pools and a resort built to look like a village
2 / 191 Lopesan Meloneras at dusk — palms, pools and a resort built to look like a village
A Lopesan dinner menu illustrated with the island's own landscapes
3 / 191 A Lopesan dinner menu illustrated with the island's own landscapes
The Corallium thalasso circuit at Lopesan Villa del Conde — seawater rather than a token treatment room
4 / 191 The Corallium thalasso circuit at Lopesan Villa del Conde — seawater rather than a token treatment room
The Lopesan Baobab lobby under its thatched roof, four storeys of it
5 / 191 The Lopesan Baobab lobby under its thatched roof, four storeys of it
Loungers and parasols at Lopesan — the part of the price you either use or waste
6 / 191 Loungers and parasols at Lopesan — the part of the price you either use or waste
The Maspalomas lighthouse from the beach — 56 metres, and you can see it from everywhere
7 / 191 The Maspalomas lighthouse from the beach — 56 metres, and you can see it from everywhere
The promenade at first light, before anyone else is on it
8 / 191 The promenade at first light, before anyone else is on it
The marble hall at the Badischer Hof, twin staircases climbing away under the glass roof
9 / 191 The marble hall at the Badischer Hof, twin staircases climbing away under the glass roof
The Kurhaus colonnade at six in the morning, before anyone is about
10 / 191 The Kurhaus colonnade at six in the morning, before anyone is about
The Badischer Hof garden frontage, the lawn running down to the trees
11 / 191 The Badischer Hof garden frontage, the lawn running down to the trees
The Kurhaus gardens in April
12 / 191 The Kurhaus gardens in April
A dining room laid up in Como
13 / 191 A dining room laid up in Como
An alley climbing away from the water, bell tower at the top of it
14 / 191 An alley climbing away from the water, bell tower at the top of it
The piazza in the late afternoon — the reason room-only works here
15 / 191 The piazza in the late afternoon — the reason room-only works here
The Beau-Rivage Palace gardens in Lausanne from above, lake and Savoy Alps beyond
16 / 191 The Beau-Rivage Palace gardens in Lausanne from above, lake and Savoy Alps beyond
Sunset over the marina at Ouchy
17 / 191 Sunset over the marina at Ouchy
The big Lopesan lagoon pool, rocks and all
18 / 191 The big Lopesan lagoon pool, rocks and all
Dinner at Lopesan, first course
19 / 191 Dinner at Lopesan, first course
The lighthouse at night, with the moon where you would have put it
20 / 191 The lighthouse at night, with the moon where you would have put it
The Lopesan Baobab entrance, a cliff of timber poles four storeys high
21 / 191 The Lopesan Baobab entrance, a cliff of timber poles four storeys high
Parasols scattered down the sand in the middle of the afternoon
22 / 191 Parasols scattered down the sand in the middle of the afternoon
Through the Lopesan arcade, first thing in the morning
23 / 191 Through the Lopesan arcade, first thing in the morning
The whole strip from above: pools, promenade, and the lighthouse holding the end of it
24 / 191 The whole strip from above: pools, promenade, and the lighthouse holding the end of it
The thatched roofline at Lopesan Baobab, carved concrete and glass beneath it
25 / 191 The thatched roofline at Lopesan Baobab, carved concrete and glass beneath it
The coast from the same spot, looking the other way
26 / 191 The coast from the same spot, looking the other way
The Maspalomas lighthouse, 1890, floodlit against a blue hour sky
27 / 191 The Maspalomas lighthouse, 1890, floodlit against a blue hour sky
The coast south of the resorts, from a height
28 / 191 The coast south of the resorts, from a height
The same Lopesan pool from the shallow end, resort behind
29 / 191 The same Lopesan pool from the shallow end, resort behind
Sushi on the terrace at Hotel Faro, a Lopesan Collection Hotel, with the afternoon still going
30 / 191 Sushi on the terrace at Hotel Faro, a Lopesan Collection Hotel, with the afternoon still going
The Lopesan entrance at midnight, still lit like a stage set
31 / 191 The Lopesan entrance at midnight, still lit like a stage set
Lunch under the palms at Lopesan, unhurried
32 / 191 Lunch under the palms at Lopesan, unhurried
A dunes-conservation sign on the promenade: your gaze, the only trace you leave
33 / 191 A dunes-conservation sign on the promenade: your gaze, the only trace you leave
Lopesan Villa del Conde after dark, its frontage modelled on a Canarian town square
34 / 191 Lopesan Villa del Conde after dark, its frontage modelled on a Canarian town square
Bookmatched marble at Hotel Faro, a Lopesan Collection Hotel — the sort of detail that tells you where the budget went
35 / 191 Bookmatched marble at Hotel Faro, a Lopesan Collection Hotel — the sort of detail that tells you where the budget went
The Lopesan Baobab atrium in daylight — stone chimneys, woven lampshades and a stage at the far end
36 / 191 The Lopesan Baobab atrium in daylight — stone chimneys, woven lampshades and a stage at the far end
Walking in to Lopesan Baobab between the timber walls — someone ahead with a rubber ring, which tells you what the day holds
37 / 191 Walking in to Lopesan Baobab between the timber walls — someone ahead with a rubber ring, which tells you what the day holds
Petits fours arriving at a Lopesan restaurant whether you asked for them or not
38 / 191 Petits fours arriving at a Lopesan restaurant whether you asked for them or not
The courtyard and fountain at Lopesan Costa Meloneras, chairs out for the evening
39 / 191 The courtyard and fountain at Lopesan Costa Meloneras, chairs out for the evening
The Maspalomas lighthouse and the Lopesan pools from above, end of the day
40 / 191 The Maspalomas lighthouse and the Lopesan pools from above, end of the day
The same Lopesan row from the other side, mid-afternoon
41 / 191 The same Lopesan row from the other side, mid-afternoon
A gilded figure against the dawn, the Lopesan pool still empty
42 / 191 A gilded figure against the dawn, the Lopesan pool still empty
The rooftop bar at Hotel Faro, a Lopesan Collection Hotel, looking back over the resorts after dark
43 / 191 The rooftop bar at Hotel Faro, a Lopesan Collection Hotel, looking back over the resorts after dark
Somebody's afternoon work on the beach, and it was better than ours
44 / 191 Somebody's afternoon work on the beach, and it was better than ours
The lighthouse and its shoreline in the middle of the day
45 / 191 The lighthouse and its shoreline in the middle of the day
Lopesan Baobab after midnight, the atrium lit and completely empty
46 / 191 Lopesan Baobab after midnight, the atrium lit and completely empty
A table by the window at Lopesan as the light goes
47 / 191 A table by the window at Lopesan as the light goes
Down the length of the Lopesan Baobab restaurant, mud-cloth on every table
48 / 191 Down the length of the Lopesan Baobab restaurant, mud-cloth on every table
The Lopesan plaza lit up after dark, which is when the resort is at its best
49 / 191 The Lopesan plaza lit up after dark, which is when the resort is at its best
Sunset over the Atlantic from the promenade
50 / 191 Sunset over the Atlantic from the promenade
The Atlantic doing what it does, a wake crossing it
51 / 191 The Atlantic doing what it does, a wake crossing it
Swimming distance across the Lopesan lagoon, if you are feeling ambitious
52 / 191 Swimming distance across the Lopesan lagoon, if you are feeling ambitious
The causeway into Lopesan Baobab, palms either side and the thatched atrium roof ahead
53 / 191 The causeway into Lopesan Baobab, palms either side and the thatched atrium roof ahead
Palms and the dry hills behind the coast
54 / 191 Palms and the dry hills behind the coast
The infinity pool at Hotel Faro, a Lopesan Collection Hotel — the Maspalomas lighthouse right beside it, which is where the hotel gets its name
55 / 191 The infinity pool at Hotel Faro, a Lopesan Collection Hotel — the Maspalomas lighthouse right beside it, which is where the hotel gets its name
The Lopesan Villa del Conde lobby, built as a full-scale copy of a Canarian village church
56 / 191 The Lopesan Villa del Conde lobby, built as a full-scale copy of a Canarian village church
Dusk over the Lopesan Baobab gardens — pools stepping down towards the Atlantic, and a new moon over the whole thing
57 / 191 Dusk over the Lopesan Baobab gardens — pools stepping down towards the Atlantic, and a new moon over the whole thing
Frangipani in the Lopesan garden, doing the smelling for the whole terrace
58 / 191 Frangipani in the Lopesan garden, doing the smelling for the whole terrace
The African-themed dining room at Lopesan Baobab, laid up under a painted ceiling
59 / 191 The African-themed dining room at Lopesan Baobab, laid up under a painted ceiling
The promenade running east towards the lighthouse
60 / 191 The promenade running east towards the lighthouse
The causeway at Lopesan Baobab at night, lit along both edges
61 / 191 The causeway at Lopesan Baobab at night, lit along both edges
Palms, a Lopesan pool and the Atlantic beyond the lawn
62 / 191 Palms, a Lopesan pool and the Atlantic beyond the lawn
A single palm against the last of the light, the Lopesan pool still warm
63 / 191 A single palm against the last of the light, the Lopesan pool still warm
The Badischer Hof terrace under the pines, waiting for the evening
64 / 191 The Badischer Hof terrace under the pines, waiting for the evening
Baden-Baden in its valley, the collegiate church tower against the Black Forest hills
65 / 191 Baden-Baden in its valley, the collegiate church tower against the Black Forest hills
The spa quarter from above — rooftops, parkland and the forest closing the view
66 / 191 The spa quarter from above — rooftops, parkland and the forest closing the view
Inside the Festspielhaus — the largest opera and concert house in Germany, and the reason to check the calendar before you pick dates
67 / 191 Inside the Festspielhaus — the largest opera and concert house in Germany, and the reason to check the calendar before you pick dates
The Stourdza Chapel on the Michaelsberg, gold dome above banded stone
68 / 191 The Stourdza Chapel on the Michaelsberg, gold dome above banded stone
The Badischer Hof from its own gardens — 1807, and the first hotel in Europe to pipe thermal water into its rooms
69 / 191 The Badischer Hof from its own gardens — 1807, and the first hotel in Europe to pipe thermal water into its rooms
Leopoldsplatz, where all of the town's traffic eventually meets
70 / 191 Leopoldsplatz, where all of the town's traffic eventually meets
The Theater Baden-Baden, and a lawn already cut in March
71 / 191 The Theater Baden-Baden, and a lawn already cut in March
Twin spires above the rhododendrons, and the first daffodils under them
72 / 191 Twin spires above the rhododendrons, and the first daffodils under them
The salon at Brenners, and the week's flowers
73 / 191 The salon at Brenners, and the week's flowers
The lounge at the Steigenberger Icon Europäischer Hof — fire lit, football on, nobody in a hurry
74 / 191 The lounge at the Steigenberger Icon Europäischer Hof — fire lit, football on, nobody in a hurry
A lounge built around its own columns, Badischer Hof
75 / 191 A lounge built around its own columns, Badischer Hof
A Gothic spire over the old town, caught against a bright March sky
76 / 191 A Gothic spire over the old town, caught against a bright March sky
A room at the Badischer Hof, turned down for the night
77 / 191 A room at the Badischer Hof, turned down for the night
Breakfast pâtisserie at the Badischer Hof — the stands come out at seven and are gone by ten
78 / 191 Breakfast pâtisserie at the Badischer Hof — the stands come out at seven and are gone by ten
A bronze in the Lichtentaler Allee, the Museum Frieder Burda behind it
79 / 191 A bronze in the Lichtentaler Allee, the Museum Frieder Burda behind it
Brenners Park-Hotel on the Kaiserallee — the grandest frontage in a town built to be looked at
80 / 191 Brenners Park-Hotel on the Kaiserallee — the grandest frontage in a town built to be looked at
Sunrise over the Black Forest, taken from above the town at half past five
81 / 191 Sunrise over the Black Forest, taken from above the town at half past five
Festival banners along the shopping street in early spring
82 / 191 Festival banners along the shopping street in early spring
The park gardens and their fountain in late August
83 / 191 The park gardens and their fountain in late August
A Baden-Baden villa under a plane tree not yet in leaf
84 / 191 A Baden-Baden villa under a plane tree not yet in leaf
The Black Forest ridge above the town, with a paraglider off the Merkur
85 / 191 The Black Forest ridge above the town, with a paraglider off the Merkur
The Brenners entrance late in the afternoon (number plates obscured)
86 / 191 The Brenners entrance late in the afternoon (number plates obscured)
The Badischer Hof bar, still empty at ten in the morning
87 / 191 The Badischer Hof bar, still empty at ten in the morning
The billiard room at Brenners — red walls, a tapestry, and nobody playing
88 / 191 The billiard room at Brenners — red walls, a tapestry, and nobody playing
Looking down on the Kurhaus and the avenue of trees running away from it
89 / 191 Looking down on the Kurhaus and the avenue of trees running away from it
'La Capitale d'Été' — a summer concert filling the Festspielhaus stage
90 / 191 'La Capitale d'Été' — a summer concert filling the Festspielhaus stage
Inside the Festspielhaus, Germany's largest opera house, a few minutes before the downbeat
91 / 191 Inside the Festspielhaus, Germany's largest opera house, a few minutes before the downbeat
The Badischer Hof from under the plane trees in the park
92 / 191 The Badischer Hof from under the plane trees in the park
A baroque church tower over the old town, framed by the first blossom
93 / 191 A baroque church tower over the old town, framed by the first blossom
The Trinkhalle colonnade and its painted arcades, crocuses out across the lawn
94 / 191 The Trinkhalle colonnade and its painted arcades, crocuses out across the lawn
Coffee at the Museum Frieder Burda, branded down to the sugar packet
95 / 191 Coffee at the Museum Frieder Burda, branded down to the sugar packet
A spritz on the Steigenberger roof terrace at dusk, the Festspielhaus programme open on the table
96 / 191 A spritz on the Steigenberger roof terrace at dusk, the Festspielhaus programme open on the table
The bar at the Steigenberger Icon Europäischer Hof, gold overhead and nobody on the stools yet
97 / 191 The bar at the Steigenberger Icon Europäischer Hof, gold overhead and nobody on the stools yet
Badischer Hof terrace tables looking out onto the lawn
98 / 191 Badischer Hof terrace tables looking out onto the lawn
The Oos — the small river the whole spa town is arranged along
99 / 191 The Oos — the small river the whole spa town is arranged along
A horse-drawn carriage waiting in the Lichtentaler Allee, as they have since the town's first season
100 / 191 A horse-drawn carriage waiting in the Lichtentaler Allee, as they have since the town's first season
A salon at the Badischer Hof laid up for a spring reception, chandeliers and all
101 / 191 A salon at the Badischer Hof laid up for a spring reception, chandeliers and all
The Kurhaus portico — casino behind it, concert hall beside it
102 / 191 The Kurhaus portico — casino behind it, concert hall beside it
Brenners Park-Hotel seen from the park, before the trees come into leaf
103 / 191 Brenners Park-Hotel seen from the park, before the trees come into leaf
A banqueting room at Brenners, laid and waiting
104 / 191 A banqueting room at Brenners, laid and waiting
The Trinkhalle from the garden side, café parasols out
105 / 191 The Trinkhalle from the garden side, café parasols out
The Badischer Hof lobby, arranged around its staircases under the glass roof
106 / 191 The Badischer Hof lobby, arranged around its staircases under the glass roof
A room with the town in the window — which is what the view costs you
107 / 191 A room with the town in the window — which is what the view costs you
The Easter Festival programme — the Berlin Philharmonic's spring residency, and the reason the town fills up in March
108 / 191 The Easter Festival programme — the Berlin Philharmonic's spring residency, and the reason the town fills up in March
The Festspielhaus on an opera night, built behind the facade of the old railway station
109 / 191 The Festspielhaus on an opera night, built behind the facade of the old railway station
Boats at their moorings under the mountains, the lake opening out to the north
110 / 191 Boats at their moorings under the mountains, the lake opening out to the north
A village restaurant with its name cut into the stone
111 / 191 A village restaurant with its name cut into the stone
A small white church above the road, eleventh-century underneath the paint
112 / 191 A small white church above the road, eleventh-century underneath the paint
The far shore from the promenade, a seaplane on the water
113 / 191 The far shore from the promenade, a seaplane on the water
Sunset over the lake from a garden in the hills
114 / 191 Sunset over the lake from a garden in the hills
Braised beef at a village trattoria — the food here is heavier than the scenery suggests
115 / 191 Braised beef at a village trattoria — the food here is heavier than the scenery suggests
The sun going down behind the far ridge
116 / 191 The sun going down behind the far ridge
The mountain wall opposite, lit for about ten minutes a day
117 / 191 The mountain wall opposite, lit for about ten minutes a day
The same square from the other end, in the middle of the afternoon
118 / 191 The same square from the other end, in the middle of the afternoon
A cappuccino on the terrace, which is the correct way to begin
119 / 191 A cappuccino on the terrace, which is the correct way to begin
A friar in the Pinacoteca's collection, still watching the door
120 / 191 A friar in the Pinacoteca's collection, still watching the door
Low sun straight down the lake from the end of a jetty
121 / 191 Low sun straight down the lake from the end of a jetty
The Broletto, Como's thirteenth-century town hall, striped in three colours of marble
122 / 191 The Broletto, Como's thirteenth-century town hall, striped in three colours of marble
Nothing but lake and sky, looking up the western arm
123 / 191 Nothing but lake and sky, looking up the western arm
Boats and a jetty at the blue end of the evening
124 / 191 Boats and a jetty at the blue end of the evening
Lake Como from Brunate, the town at the head of the lake below the mountains
125 / 191 Lake Como from Brunate, the town at the head of the lake below the mountains
The lakeside promenade on a Saturday morning
126 / 191 The lakeside promenade on a Saturday morning
A baroque church lit up after dark
127 / 191 A baroque church lit up after dark
Shuttered balconies on a side street in the centro storico
128 / 191 Shuttered balconies on a side street in the centro storico
Sunset over the lake from the hills above Como
129 / 191 Sunset over the lake from the hills above Como
A quiet corner of the lakefront out of season, when the town belongs to itself
130 / 191 A quiet corner of the lakefront out of season, when the town belongs to itself
The cathedral front — Gothic below, Renaissance above, and nobody minds
131 / 191 The cathedral front — Gothic below, Renaissance above, and nobody minds
A pink church front catching the last of the sun
132 / 191 A pink church front catching the last of the sun
In the Pinacoteca, out of the heat for an hour
133 / 191 In the Pinacoteca, out of the heat for an hour
A lakeside church with the boats pulled up in front of it
134 / 191 A lakeside church with the boats pulled up in front of it
Golden hour on the water, a small boat heading home
135 / 191 Golden hour on the water, a small boat heading home
The waterfront at Como, villas climbing the slope behind the moorings
136 / 191 The waterfront at Como, villas climbing the slope behind the moorings
A lamp on the quay after dinner
137 / 191 A lamp on the quay after dinner
A civic building off the main square, flag out
138 / 191 A civic building off the main square, flag out
The Aero Club Como hangar — seaplanes have flown off this water since 1930
139 / 191 The Aero Club Como hangar — seaplanes have flown off this water since 1930
Last light over the Lombard plain, the lake already in shadow
140 / 191 Last light over the Lombard plain, the lake already in shadow
Como's rationalist war memorial of 1933 — the town is a quiet pilgrimage for architects
141 / 191 Como's rationalist war memorial of 1933 — the town is a quiet pilgrimage for architects
Dinner on the lake — the kind of meal a kitchen in the apartment lets you skip or splurge on
142 / 191 Dinner on the lake — the kind of meal a kitchen in the apartment lets you skip or splurge on
The view back down over the lake from Brunate, above Como
143 / 191 The view back down over the lake from Brunate, above Como
Piazza Duomo, cathedral on one side and arcades on the other
144 / 191 Piazza Duomo, cathedral on one side and arcades on the other
The marina, with the mountains folding down behind the masts
145 / 191 The marina, with the mountains folding down behind the masts
A baroque church on the waterfront, bell tower and all
146 / 191 A baroque church on the waterfront, bell tower and all
The bell tower again, from the lane below
147 / 191 The bell tower again, from the lane below
Looking straight up a painted facade, which is how most of Como is best seen
148 / 191 Looking straight up a painted facade, which is how most of Como is best seen
Flowers going out in the Beau-Rivage hall before the day starts
149 / 191 Flowers going out in the Beau-Rivage hall before the day starts
The Grand-Pont, which carries the city straight over its own valley
150 / 191 The Grand-Pont, which carries the city straight over its own valley
The Palais de Rumine on Place de la Riponne — several museums under one Florentine roof
151 / 191 The Palais de Rumine on Place de la Riponne — several museums under one Florentine roof
Ouchy in July — the Savoy Alps opposite are in France, and the lake in front is why the hotels are here
152 / 191 Ouchy in July — the Savoy Alps opposite are in France, and the lake in front is why the hotels are here
The Beau-Rivage Palace frontage from the garden terrace
153 / 191 The Beau-Rivage Palace frontage from the garden terrace
The Beau-Rivage rotunda under its stained-glass dome
154 / 191 The Beau-Rivage rotunda under its stained-glass dome
White linen, an orchid, and the terrace door left open — Beau-Rivage Palace
155 / 191 White linen, an orchid, and the terrace door left open — Beau-Rivage Palace
Wildflowers and a limestone peak on the way back down
156 / 191 Wildflowers and a limestone peak on the way back down
Gardens, quay and water, stacked the way Lausanne stacks everything
157 / 191 Gardens, quay and water, stacked the way Lausanne stacks everything
Sailing boats in the long evening light, from the Beau-Rivage terrace
158 / 191 Sailing boats in the long evening light, from the Beau-Rivage terrace
A pre-Alpine lake within easy reach of the city
159 / 191 A pre-Alpine lake within easy reach of the city
The equestrian statue in the Beau-Rivage Palace park, the Château d'Ouchy behind it
160 / 191 The equestrian statue in the Beau-Rivage Palace park, the Château d'Ouchy behind it
The Beau-Rivage Palace from its own lawn at Ouchy, yellow awnings out against a July sun
161 / 191 The Beau-Rivage Palace from its own lawn at Ouchy, yellow awnings out against a July sun
The Beau-Rivage room key, and the garden it lets you back into
162 / 191 The Beau-Rivage room key, and the garden it lets you back into
The pool at the Angleterre & Résidence — the cheapest of the four palace hotels, and it still has this
163 / 191 The pool at the Angleterre & Résidence — the cheapest of the four palace hotels, and it still has this
The waterfront sculpture walk at Ouchy
164 / 191 The waterfront sculpture walk at Ouchy
Geraniums and a flag on a chalet balcony, which is not a cliché if it is simply there
165 / 191 Geraniums and a flag on a chalet balcony, which is not a cliché if it is simply there
A concert hall under its rose window, piano waiting
166 / 191 A concert hall under its rose window, piano waiting
The cathedral from the street below, all four hundred vertical metres of city underneath it
167 / 191 The cathedral from the street below, all four hundred vertical metres of city underneath it
The welcome box, Beau-Rivage Palace
168 / 191 The welcome box, Beau-Rivage Palace
Gruyères advertising itself on the Beau-Rivage terrace — an hour up the line, and worth the day
169 / 191 Gruyères advertising itself on the Beau-Rivage terrace — an hour up the line, and worth the day
Breakfast tables on the lawn at the Beau-Rivage Palace, nine in the morning
170 / 191 Breakfast tables on the lawn at the Beau-Rivage Palace, nine in the morning
A Beau-Rivage ballroom being set for a summer wedding
171 / 191 A Beau-Rivage ballroom being set for a summer wedding
The lake from the Beau-Rivage park, with the pines doing the framing
172 / 191 The lake from the Beau-Rivage park, with the pines doing the framing
The cathedral front, the finest Gothic in Switzerland and still keeping a night watchman
173 / 191 The cathedral front, the finest Gothic in Switzerland and still keeping a night watchman
Lake Geneva from the Ouchy shore, the Savoy Alps on the French side
174 / 191 Lake Geneva from the Ouchy shore, the Savoy Alps on the French side
The gallery running the whole length of the Beau-Rivage Palace
175 / 191 The gallery running the whole length of the Beau-Rivage Palace
The #Lausanne sign at Ouchy, which everybody photographs and so did we
176 / 191 The #Lausanne sign at Ouchy, which everybody photographs and so did we
The Beau-Rivage Palace from the quay, every balcony facing the same way
177 / 191 The Beau-Rivage Palace from the quay, every balcony facing the same way
A chalet in the pines, Fribourg pre-Alps
178 / 191 A chalet in the pines, Fribourg pre-Alps
Lake Geneva from the Beau-Rivage, the French shore on the far side
179 / 191 Lake Geneva from the Beau-Rivage, the French shore on the far side
The same water, with somebody else having had the same idea
180 / 191 The same water, with somebody else having had the same idea
A room at the Beau-Rivage Palace, with the lake in the window — which is what you are actually paying for
181 / 191 A room at the Beau-Rivage Palace, with the lake in the window — which is what you are actually paying for
A pool terrace under the umbrella pines at Ouchy, cabanas and all
182 / 191 A pool terrace under the umbrella pines at Ouchy, cabanas and all
A small church lit against the dusk
183 / 191 A small church lit against the dusk
Alpine meadow and a handful of chalets under the ridge
184 / 191 Alpine meadow and a handful of chalets under the ridge
The same figure from the lake side, with the boats behind
185 / 191 The same figure from the lake side, with the boats behind
Breakfast on the balcony, Lake Geneva doing the rest
186 / 191 Breakfast on the balcony, Lake Geneva doing the rest
A plaque to Gabriel Fauré, who summered here and began 'Pénélope' in 1907
187 / 191 A plaque to Gabriel Fauré, who summered here and began 'Pénélope' in 1907
Lausanne cathedral on the ridge, seen across the rooftops
188 / 191 Lausanne cathedral on the ridge, seen across the rooftops
Moonlight laid out across the lake
189 / 191 Moonlight laid out across the lake
The Beau-Rivage terrace, and a poster for the Alfredo Jaar show at Plateforme 10
190 / 191 The Beau-Rivage terrace, and a poster for the Alfredo Jaar show at Plateforme 10
A pre-Alpine lake under limestone cliffs, ninety minutes from the city
191 / 191 A pre-Alpine lake under limestone cliffs, ninety minutes from the city