:root{--ink:#17171a;--muted:#6b6b73;--rule:#e4e2dc;--bg:#fbfaf7;--accent:#0f6e56;
--accent2:#a4303f;--card:#fff;--maxw:1080px}
*{box-sizing:border-box}
body{margin:0;background:var(--bg);color:var(--ink);
font:16px/1.65 -apple-system,BlinkMacSystemFont,"Segoe UI",Lato,Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif}
a{color:var(--accent);text-decoration:none}a:hover{text-decoration:underline}
.wrap{max-width:var(--maxw);margin:0 auto;padding:0 20px}
header.site{border-bottom:1px solid var(--rule);background:#fff}
header.site .wrap{display:flex;align-items:baseline;gap:22px;padding:18px 20px}
.brand{font-size:20px;font-weight:700;letter-spacing:-.02em;color:var(--ink);
display:inline-flex;align-items:center;gap:9px}
.brand .bt span{color:var(--accent)}
svg.mark{width:26px;height:26px;display:block;flex:none}
.news{background:#0f6e56;color:#fff;border-radius:14px;padding:26px 28px;margin:34px 0}
.news h2{color:#fff;margin:0 0 6px;font-size:21px}
.news p{color:#d6ebe3;margin:0 0 16px;max-width:52ch;font-size:15px}
.news form{display:flex;gap:9px;flex-wrap:wrap}
.news input[type=email]{flex:1 1 260px;padding:11px 14px;border:0;border-radius:8px;
font-size:15px;font-family:inherit}
.news button{background:#f4c77a;color:#25301f;border:0;border-radius:8px;padding:11px 20px;
font-weight:700;font-size:15px;cursor:pointer;font-family:inherit}
.news button:hover{background:#f7d79a}
.news small{display:block;margin-top:11px;color:#a8cfc2;font-size:12px}
.dest{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fit,minmax(240px,1fr));gap:16px;margin:16px 0}
.dcard{border:1px solid var(--rule);border-radius:12px;overflow:hidden;background:var(--card);
display:flex;flex-direction:column}
.dcard img{width:100%;height:150px;object-fit:cover;display:block}
.dcard .b{padding:13px 15px 16px}
.dcard h3{margin:0 0 4px;font-size:16px}
.dcard p{margin:0;font-size:14px;color:var(--muted)}
.dcard .n{font-size:12px;color:var(--muted);margin-top:8px}
/* Hotel cards. The whole card is the link — a small "book" button beside a big photo
   loses most of the clicks that the photo earned. */
.hcards{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fit,minmax(248px,1fr));gap:16px;
margin:18px 0 8px}
a.hcard{display:flex;flex-direction:column;border:1px solid var(--rule);border-radius:12px;
overflow:hidden;background:var(--card);color:var(--ink);text-decoration:none;
transition:transform .18s ease,box-shadow .18s ease,border-color .18s ease}
a.hcard:hover{transform:translateY(-2px);box-shadow:0 10px 26px rgba(20,20,25,.10);
border-color:#cfd8d3;text-decoration:none}
.hcard-img{display:block;aspect-ratio:3/2;overflow:hidden;background:#eceae5}
.hcard-img img,.hcard-img svg{width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover;display:block}
a.hcard .b{padding:13px 15px 15px;display:flex;flex-direction:column;gap:3px;flex:1}
a.hcard strong{font-size:15.5px;line-height:1.3}
a.hcard .where{font-size:13px;color:var(--muted)}
a.hcard .price{font-size:15px;font-weight:700;margin-top:6px}
a.hcard .price .fx{font-weight:400}
a.hcard .tags{font-size:11.5px;color:var(--muted)}
a.hcard .cta{margin-top:auto;padding-top:9px;font-size:13px;font-weight:600;
color:var(--accent)}
a.hcard:hover .cta{text-decoration:underline}
@media(prefers-reduced-motion:reduce){a.hcard{transition:none}
a.hcard:hover{transform:none}}
.hello{display:grid;grid-template-columns:260px 1fr;gap:30px;align-items:start;margin:30px 0 8px}
.hello-img img{width:100%;height:320px;object-fit:cover;object-position:center 28%;
border-radius:14px;display:block}
.hello-txt h1{margin:0 0 10px}
.hello-txt p{font-size:16.5px}
.hello-txt .lede{margin-bottom:14px}
.sig{font-family:Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif;font-style:italic;color:var(--accent);
font-size:17px;margin-top:16px}
.hello-more{max-width:66ch;margin:4px 0 8px}
.hello-more p{font-size:16.5px}
.hello-more .turn{font-family:Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif;font-style:italic;
font-size:19px;color:var(--ink);margin:22px 0 10px}
/* ⚠ NO FIXED HEIGHT ON A PHONE. Below 720px the portrait column goes full width, so the
   260px height that worked in a 260px-wide column turned the frame into a letterbox and
   cropped the top of a head off. Cap the width instead and let the photograph keep its
   own proportions — nothing can be cut from a frame that is never cropped. */
@media(max-width:720px){.hello{grid-template-columns:1fr;gap:18px}
.hello-img{max-width:270px;margin:0 auto}
.hello-img img{height:auto;object-fit:contain}}
nav a{margin-right:16px;font-size:14px;color:var(--muted)}
nav a:hover{color:var(--ink)}
h1{font-size:34px;line-height:1.2;letter-spacing:-.02em;margin:28px 0 8px}
h2{font-size:22px;letter-spacing:-.01em;margin:32px 0 10px}
h3{font-size:17px;margin:22px 0 6px}
.lede{font-size:18px;color:var(--muted);margin:0 0 22px;max-width:60ch}
.meta{font-size:13px;color:var(--muted)}
table{border-collapse:collapse;width:100%;font-size:14px;background:var(--card)}
th,td{text-align:left;padding:9px 10px;border-bottom:1px solid var(--rule)}
th{font-weight:600;font-size:12px;text-transform:uppercase;letter-spacing:.04em;color:var(--muted)}
td.num,th.num{text-align:right;font-variant-numeric:tabular-nums}
tr:hover td{background:#faf9f6}
.card{background:var(--card);border:1px solid var(--rule);border-radius:10px;padding:18px 20px;margin:14px 0}
.grid{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fill,minmax(290px,1fr));gap:16px}
.pill{display:inline-block;font-size:11px;padding:2px 8px;border-radius:99px;
border:1px solid var(--rule);color:var(--muted);margin-right:6px}
.pill.good{color:var(--accent);border-color:#bfe0d3}
.pill.warn{color:var(--accent2);border-color:#e8c9ce}
.frm{font-size:12px;color:var(--muted);white-space:nowrap}
/* The euro/dollar equivalent of a franc figure. Deliberately quiet: it is a conversion we
   worked out, not a price anyone quoted, so it must never look like the headline number. */
.fx{display:block;font-size:11.5px;font-weight:400;color:var(--muted);letter-spacing:0;
font-variant-numeric:tabular-nums;white-space:nowrap}
p .fx,li .fx,figcaption .fx{display:inline;margin-left:5px;white-space:normal}
.fxbig{display:block;font-size:14px;font-weight:400;color:var(--muted);margin-top:2px;
letter-spacing:0}
td.num .fx{text-align:right}
/* Thumbnail in the list. The whole cell is the link, so the picture is as clickable as
   the name — on a phone that little image is the easiest thing to hit. */
td.withthumb a{display:flex;align-items:center;gap:11px;line-height:1.3}
.thumb,td.withthumb picture{flex:none;display:block;width:72px;height:50px;border-radius:6px;
overflow:hidden;background:#eceae5}
td.withthumb img{width:72px;height:50px;object-fit:cover;display:block;border-radius:6px}
.thumb-svg svg{width:72px;height:50px;display:block;border-radius:6px;aspect-ratio:auto}
@media(max-width:700px){
td.withthumb a{gap:8px}
.thumb,td.withthumb picture,td.withthumb img,.thumb-svg svg{width:52px;height:38px}}
.rewards{background:#f2f6f4;border-left:3px solid var(--accent);padding:12px 16px;margin:18px 0;
border-radius:0 8px 8px 0}
.rewards h3{margin:0 0 6px;font-size:15px;color:var(--accent)}
.rewards p,.rewards li{font-size:15px;margin:4px 0}
.price{font-size:30px;font-weight:700;font-variant-numeric:tabular-nums}
.price small{font-size:13px;font-weight:400;color:var(--muted)}
.range{height:8px;background:#eeece6;border-radius:4px;position:relative;margin:10px 0 6px}
.range i{position:absolute;top:0;bottom:0;background:#c9d6cf;border-radius:4px}
.range b{position:absolute;top:-3px;bottom:-3px;width:2px;background:var(--accent)}
.btn{display:inline-block;background:var(--accent);color:#fff;padding:11px 18px;
border-radius:8px;font-weight:600;font-size:15px;margin:6px 8px 6px 0}
.btn:hover{text-decoration:none;background:#0c5a47}
.btn.sec{background:#fff;color:var(--ink);border:1px solid var(--rule)}
.btn.sec:hover{background:#f5f4f0}
.disc{font-size:12px;color:var(--muted);background:#f4f2ec;border-left:3px solid var(--rule);
padding:9px 12px;margin:16px 0}
.herowrap{border-radius:12px;overflow:hidden;margin:18px 0;line-height:0}
svg.hero{width:100%;height:auto;display:block;aspect-ratio:1200/380}
.hcard-img svg.hero{aspect-ratio:auto}
/* A stock photograph of the town, on a hotel we have not been to. Tagged with the place
   so nobody mistakes it for the building. */
.loc-art{display:block;position:relative;width:100%;height:100%}
.loc-art img{width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover;display:block}
.loc-tag{position:absolute;left:9px;bottom:9px;background:rgba(15,15,18,.62);color:#fff;
font-size:11px;letter-spacing:.03em;padding:3px 8px;border-radius:99px;backdrop-filter:blur(3px)}
figure.lead figcaption strong{color:var(--accent2)}
figure.lead{margin:18px 0}
/* A portrait of one of us, not a hero image. Capped so it sits beside the text rather
   than taking over the page. */
figure.portrait{margin:20px 0 26px;max-width:300px}
figure.portrait img{width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:12px;display:block}
figure.portrait figcaption{font-size:13.5px}
@media(min-width:760px){figure.portrait{float:right;margin:6px 0 16px 28px;max-width:270px}
/* The second portrait goes down the other side, so two faces on one page do not stack up
   against the same margin. `clear` keeps it below the first rather than beside it. */
figure.portrait.left{float:left;clear:both;margin:6px 28px 16px 0}}
figure{margin:18px 0}figure img{width:100%;height:auto;border-radius:10px;display:block}
/* The wide frame on the homepage. No fixed height and no object-fit: the photograph keeps
   its own proportions at every width, so nothing is ever cropped out of it. */
figure.band{margin:26px 0 34px}
figure.band img{border-radius:14px}
figure.band figcaption{margin-top:9px}

/* --- click-to-enlarge, with no JavaScript anywhere in it ------------------------------
   A thumbnail is a link to #pN; the overlay with that id is hidden until :target picks
   it. Prev/next are links to the neighbours; close is a link back to the thumbnail's own
   id, so the reader returns to their place in the article rather than the top. */
a.zoom{display:block;position:relative;cursor:zoom-in;border-radius:10px;overflow:hidden}
a.zoom img{transition:transform .35s ease,filter .35s ease}
a.zoom:hover img{transform:scale(1.025);filter:brightness(1.04)}
a.zoom::after{content:"";position:absolute;right:10px;bottom:10px;width:26px;height:26px;
border-radius:50%;background:rgba(15,15,18,.55) url("data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg xmlns='http://www.w3.org/2000/svg' viewBox='0 0 24 24' fill='none' stroke='%23fff' stroke-width='2.4' stroke-linecap='round'%3E%3Ccircle cx='10.5' cy='10.5' r='6.5'/%3E%3Cpath d='M15.5 15.5 21 21M10.5 7.6v5.8M7.6 10.5h5.8'/%3E%3C/svg%3E") center/16px no-repeat;
opacity:0;transition:opacity .25s ease}
a.zoom:hover::after,a.zoom:focus::after{opacity:1}
/* JUSTIFIED gallery, not a CSS grid. A grid lays tiles into fixed columns, so the last
   row of every block ends in blank cells. Here each tile is a flex item whose width is
   proportional to its own aspect ratio and every tile grows to fill the line, so rows are
   flush on both edges — the final row included. No gaps, ever. */
.pgrid{display:flex;flex-wrap:wrap;gap:8px;margin:16px 0 26px;list-style:none;padding:0}
/* aspect-ratio, not a fixed height: every tile on a line stretches by the same factor, so
   they stay the same height as each other while the line fills edge to edge. max-height
   stops a lone final tile from becoming a very tall or very letterboxed strip — past that
   point it simply crops, which still leaves no gap. */
.pgrid a.zoom{border-radius:9px;min-width:0;overflow:hidden;
aspect-ratio:var(--ar,1.5);max-height:300px;min-height:110px}
.pgrid picture{display:block;width:100%;height:100%}
.pgrid img{width:100%;height:100%;object-fit:cover;display:block;border-radius:9px}
.lb{display:none}
.lb:target{display:flex;position:fixed;inset:0;z-index:99;align-items:center;
justify-content:center;background:rgba(10,10,12,.94);padding:26px 16px 0}
.lb-bg{position:absolute;inset:0;cursor:zoom-out}
.lb-fig{position:relative;margin:0;max-width:1100px;width:100%;text-align:center}
.lb-fig picture,.lb-fig img{display:block;margin:0 auto}
.lb-fig img{max-width:100%;max-height:78vh;width:auto;height:auto;border-radius:8px;
box-shadow:0 22px 60px rgba(0,0,0,.6)}
.lb-fig figcaption{color:#e9e7e2;font-size:14.5px;line-height:1.5;margin:14px auto 0;
max-width:64ch;padding-bottom:22px}
.lb-fig figcaption b{color:#8fd3ba;font-weight:600;margin-right:9px;
font-variant-numeric:tabular-nums}
.lb-nav,.lb-x{position:absolute;z-index:2;color:#fff;text-decoration:none;
background:rgba(255,255,255,.1);border:1px solid rgba(255,255,255,.22);
display:flex;align-items:center;justify-content:center;backdrop-filter:blur(3px)}
.lb-nav{top:50%;transform:translateY(-50%);width:52px;height:52px;border-radius:50%;
font-size:30px;line-height:1}
.lb-prev{left:14px}.lb-next{right:14px}
.lb-x{top:14px;right:14px;width:40px;height:40px;border-radius:50%;font-size:17px}
.lb-nav:hover,.lb-x:hover{background:rgba(255,255,255,.24);text-decoration:none}
@media(max-width:700px){
.pgrid{gap:6px}
.pgrid a.zoom{max-height:210px;min-height:84px}
.lb:target{padding:14px 8px 0}
.lb-fig img{max-height:64vh}
.lb-nav{width:44px;height:44px;font-size:26px}.lb-prev{left:6px}.lb-next{right:6px}}
@media(prefers-reduced-motion:reduce){a.zoom img{transition:none}
a.zoom:hover img{transform:none}}
figcaption{font-size:12px;color:var(--muted);margin-top:6px}
.photos{display:grid;grid-template-columns:repeat(auto-fill,minmax(230px,1fr));gap:12px}
.photos img{width:100%;height:190px;object-fit:cover;border-radius:10px}
footer.site{border-top:1px solid var(--rule);margin-top:48px;padding:26px 0 50px;
font-size:13px;color:var(--muted);background:#fff}
footer.site a{color:var(--muted);text-decoration:underline}
footer.site .operator{margin-top:14px;padding-top:12px;border-top:1px solid var(--rule)}
address.opaddr{font-style:normal;background:#f4f2ec;border-left:3px solid var(--rule);
padding:12px 16px;margin:14px 0;font-size:14px;line-height:1.7;border-radius:0 8px 8px 0}
.post{max-width:70ch}
.post p,.post li{font-size:17px}
@media(max-width:640px){h1{font-size:27px}.wrap{padding:0 15px}
table{font-size:13px}th,td{padding:7px 6px}}